Tips, techniques for nonperpendicular holemaking

We called them “submarines.” Tough, 17-4 PH stainless steel forgings shaped like miniature German U-boats, each requiring several ¼” (6.4mm) through-holes to be drilled at a 25° angle. Each sub was loaded into a jig that held it at the required angle, and a metal plate fitted with hardened steel bushings was then clamped to the top of the jig before the holes were produced with a drill press.

Chips and cutting fluid flew everywhere. And because the drill would occasionally shatter on breakthrough, shrapnel was always a concern. It was mindless, tiring work, and there was an unspoken rule that all new employees had to spend their first week drilling submarines, upon which they could graduate to one of the NC mills or chuckers.

Image courtesy Walter USA.

A Light Touch

Even today, a drill press with a bushed fixture is a cost-effective way to make large numbers of holes, especially when they are not perpendicular to the workpiece surface. That’s because the bushing supports the drill, preventing deflection as it enters the workpiece, and the ability to feel the drill when it breaks through allows an operator to
manually reduce drilling pressure, hopefully avoiding breakage.

That’s certainly the hope of Dave Fagan, shop foreman at Washington Machine Works, a Seattle job shop that specializes in low-volume, complex parts for the nuclear, marine and other industries. Fagan said the quantities at WMW are small enough that bushed drill jigs are rarely necessary. Instead, machinists rely on their sense of touch to guide drills during angled holemaking.

“A lot of our work is done on a Bridgeport,” he said. “It gives you a certain sense of touch, something you don’t feel on a big horizontal boring mill or other large manual machine, where much more iron is moved when you turn the handles.”

The flute design of the Walter DC170 drill creates support around the periphery of the tool to prevent chatter and drill walking when making angled holes, according to the company. Image courtesy Walter USA.

One job that needed a delicate touch was a 316 stainless axle shaft for a cable drum. Fagan said WMW straddle-clamped the shaft directly to the Bridgeport table, tipped the head 45°, found the centerline and then spotfaced a small flat with an endmill at the required location. Next, a HSS jobber drill was applied to punch through to a cross-hole, into which a length of cable would later be fed.

“There are different ways to go about it,” Fagan said. “You could just as easily tip the part to the required angle with some sine blocks. What’s important is that you do the math and get the hole in the right spot. And you need a good feel for the drill as it breaks through, because it can catch and break. That’s why we like to use HSS, since it’s a lot more forgiving than carbide.”

The angled hole on this shaft required a delicate touch while being drilled on a knee mill. Image courtesy Washington Machine Works.

Maximizing Margins

Luke Pollock, product manager at Walter USA LLC, Waukesha, Wis., said that regardless of the machine tool, one of the best solutions for angled holemaking is a four-margin drill. “A drill with two margins per cutting edge provides more contact between the tool and the workpiece material,” he said. “It helps guide the tool and prevents drill walk, especially as you break through the back of the part.”

For relatively shallow holes where the centerline is close to perpendicular, it’s often possible to drill without a starter hole.

“I wouldn’t do that on very tough materials or where high positional accuracy is required, but on depth-to-diameter ratios up to maybe 8:1, you can often just start drilling,” he said. “Another option is our DC170 drill, which, because of its flute design, offers support around the entire periphery of the drill point. It basically acts like a bearing surface, preventing any chatter or drill walk on exit.”

For most angled drilling, Pollock recommends reducing speeds and feeds by 30 to 50 percent when starting and exiting a hole. If a starter hole is required, he said many shops don’t drill one. Instead, they use a center-cutting endmill to create a flat the same size, or slightly larger, than the drill’s diameter. He added that a better option than endmilling a flat is to apply a dedicated pilot drill with a 180° point, because it has greater metal-removal capabilities and improves accuracy and tool life.